It is said that the epic battle between Durga and the demon Mahishasura took place near modern day Mysore. In fact, the name Mysore derives from the demon name, "Mahishasura."
After the battle, the goddess retired to a hill that now bears the name Chamundi Hill. Chamundi means "fearsome" and it was the fearsome appearance of the Goddess that resulted in this name. On top of the hill, there now stands a temple dedicated to Chamundeshwari, as Durga is known there. On the hill is also a tall statue of the demon Mahishasura.
Dussera Celebrations in Mysore
The Dussera celebrations in Mysore obviously focus on Chamundeshwari. These celebrations have been patronized by the Wodeyars, ruling family of Mysore, for over 400 years. Raja Wodeyar began the custom of taking out the procession in 1610. Until royalty was abolished in India in the early 1970s, the procession was executed with great pomp and celebration. In recent years, the fervor has been toned down.
The procession is taken out on Dussera day, which is the last day of the celebrations. The procession starts at the Mysore Palace, where the former king currently resides. It travels for a distance of about four kilometers to the Banni Mantapa grounds.
The highlight of the celebration is a procession of decorated elephants, one of which carries the idol of Chamundeshwari in a golden howdah. Accompanying the procession are royal soldiers in their ceremonial dress, folk artists dancing and singing along the way, and floats organized by the state of Karnataka. The former royal family also displays some of its traditional items in the procession. In the evening the procession is followed by bearers carrying torch lights and there is a firework display at the Banni Mantapa grounds.
The Chamundeshwari Temple
The Chamundeshwari Temple was first built in the 12th century. Parts of it have since been renovated. For example, the tower is the latest addition, which is about 300 years old. The gopuram, or the main door, is constructed in typical South Indian style. It is seven story tall and 40 meters high and has intricate carvings. The idol of the goddess is made of solid gold. Among the temple treasures is a jewel known as the Nakshatra-Malike that has 30 Sanskrit shlokas inscribed on it. Krishnaraja III gifted this gem to the temple.
Pilgrims who prefer to walk up to the temple have to climb a thousand steps. However there is a motor able road right to the temple gate. Halfway up the hill, there is a gigantic statue of Nandi. Nandi is the vahana or "the vehicle" of Shiva. Since Durga is deemed to be an avatar of Parvati, Shiva is her consort and therefore the statue of Nandi guards the temple. Maharaja Dodda Devaraja Wodeyar had this statue built in 1659.
The Secular Dussera Trade Fair
Dussera is the state festival of Karnataka. It has assumed proportions greater than a religious celebration. The state government organizes the festival in the form of a trade fair in which the arts and crafts of Karnataka are on display. The preparations for this fair begin months in advance and the attendance is unprecedented. This trade fair is a perfect example of how a religious occasion has been used for the larger public good.
Sources:
- Magical Mysore; Accessed at ResourceDesign.co.in.
- Chamundeswari Temple of Chamundi Hill, Mysore; Accessed at Durga-Puja.org.
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